How to Hide a Projector in a Small Room (Our Playroom Built-In Setup)

Our downstairs playroom is small, pretty dark, and has basically zero wall space to spare but we still wanted a TV down there for movie nights. Enter: hidden projector.

It was easily the best decision for this space!

Our playroom nook being dark is actually perfect for projector use because you need low ambient light for a decent image, so we basically had a head start.

A TV big enough to feel worth it would’ve eaten the wall and turned the room into a media room permanently. With a projector, we get a way bigger screen than we ever could’ve afforded in TV form (84 inches!).

When movie night’s over, it’s gone, and the TV not being visible means the kids often forget it’s even an option. The room just goes back to being a playroom.

It’s one of those solutions that sounds complicated until you’re done and then you can’t believe you almost just bought a TV instead.

Here’s how we built our hidden projector.

What You’ll Need for Your Hidden Projector

• Pull-down projector screen (sized to your wall — ours is just under the width of the built in)
• Projector — we used this one with built-in apps and Bluetooth
• Wood for the faux panel in front (ours was about a 1×8”)
• Paint to match your built-ins or wall
• Basic tools — drill, stud finder, saw
• Ceiling Mount for the projector
• Cable management (100% needed, trust me)

How We Built Our Hidden Projector

Step 1: Figure Out Your Screen Placement First

We had made some built-ins out of IKEA cabinets for storage so we wanted the screen to be hidden in the upper trim and pull down in front of the shelves.

But, you could also do this as a bump-out on existing ceiling trim on a blank wall, in front of a window so it pulls down in front of curtains, that kind of thing.

A few things to check before you commit to location: Make sure the screen has enough space to pull down the full way without hitting anything, and that it lands at a comfortable viewing height.

Step 2: Build the Faux Trim Panel

We finished the built-ins with a piece of trim running around the top like regular ceiling trim, so we just attached the pull-down screen to that piece of trim.

At this point, it’s not cute and just looks like a regular old middle school projector setup.

So, I added a few scrap pieces into the ceiling just in front of the projector screen to act as cleats. Then, I nailed a piece of wood wide enough to cover the screen mount to those little brackets I’d made.

I caulked it all, filled the holes, and painted it to match and it does look pretty chunky for ceiling trim, but blends in well enough that it looks like it’s part of the built-ins.

If you’re worried about accessing the housing, you could also use magnetic catches on the front piece, or do a piano hinge so you can flip the front piece up, but then you’d have a visible seam on the edges that risks losing the ‘built-in’ look.

To be honest, we’ve had this in place for almost a year now and have never had to access the screen mount, so I feel like if we ever do I’d just take off that front piece of trim.

Step 3: Sort Out Your Projector Situation

For placement, you’ve got a few options:

• Ceiling mount — cleanest look, everything is more seamless and tucked away
• Shelf mount — a small dedicated shelf on the other side of the room to your built-ins, mounted at the right height
• Portable — The projector isn’t permanently mounted anywhere and is just pulled out for movie night

A ceiling-mounted projector is definitely the way to go for the most permanent, professional look. That way, you set up the height and screen angles once and it’s going to be perfect every time you turn it on.

We chose to use a smart projector which has the apps like Netflix and Disney+ built in already and I’d 100% recommend this over adding or buying another device that attaches to your projector. It’s an all-in-one situation that is much easier to manage.

Step 4: Cable Management (Do Not Skip This Step)

I’m putting this as its own step because it’s the thing most people leave as an afterthought and then regret.

We ran our HDMI and power cables up along the ceiling from the projector’s ceiling mount over to the back wall where the outlet is. We put them into a cable management system that blends in with the wall and you can hardly tell they’re there.

Step 5: Sound System (optional)

This depends on how far you want to go into the home theater vibe, but we found that our projector was a little quiet sometimes so we added a Bluetooth sound bar that connects right to the smart projector without any extra cords. Definitely an added upgrade, but the sound quality is amazing and really gives the full movie experience.

The End Result

This is honestly one of my favorite things we’ve done to our new home. It’s such a clever solution (if I do say so myself), and I love that you don’t walk in and see a TV right away.

Now on movie night, we fold out our Koala sofa bed, pull down the projector, and get right to watching whatever 90s throwback the kids are into on a massive screen.

Questions I Keep Getting Asked About Our Hidden Projector

What projector do you use?
This one. For a dark room you don’t need to spend a fortune on a really bright casting projector because your low light situation is already doing the heavy lifting.

Does the screen cover the shelves?
Yes, it drops down in front of them entirely, like a curtain. Nothing on the shelves needs to move.

Is this a hard DIY?
It’s more finish carpentry than anything scary. If you’re comfortable with a drill and can make a clean cut, the panel is very doable. Matching your trim profile is the hardest part and mostly just requires patience at the hardware store.

What if my room gets a lot of natural light?
Projectors and bright rooms are a tough combination. Look for 3,000+ lumens if you can’t control the light, or consider blackout blinds as part of the setup.

If you build your own hidden projector I 100% want to see it so tag me @shoemakesnew. And pin this for later if it’s helpful, I always appreciate it!